Srinagar-Leh Road Trip in September

Discussion in 'Travel Partners' started by aparna, May 22, 2018.

  1. Meticulous Madrasi

    Meticulous Madrasi New Member

    hi aparna ( now you yourself in INCOGNITO MODE -- covertly at office ;) )
    You have to Fax/scan/ email the imp docu and places of interest in ILP application with ILP fee ( apart from nominal commission payable to the driver/agency) to get it done at ladakh prior hand your visit to Dah Hanoo Chiktan villages. ie., there is no ILP window facility office at Srinagar. thus, on reaching srinagar/kargil your driver can hand over the ILP to you. in that case, 17 sep is just acclimitization only and no ILP paper works as you got it already. 19 sep - hunder - turtuk- pangong is not possible in a single day. even if you start from turtuk on sep 19th early morning, it is a very tiresome and hectic drive to reach pangong on the same day. Moreover, if the shorter Agham-Shyok road is blocked due to unnatural things, then you have to take the Treacherous yet beautiful Wari La and the circuitous mighty Chang La to reach pangong tso ( almost 60 kms more via high passes -- so more time ) moreover, if you had reached turtuk on sep 18 evening, then you cannot have more time to spend in turtuk village as you have to rush off the next day morning for a tiresome journey thereby spoiling both trips to turtuk and pangong so what i suggest is

    Get the ILP paper works done through driver/agency and keep it ready on hand before embarking from srinagar / kargil -- one big headache over - focus on enjoyment

    sep 13 - SXR
    Sep 14 - SXR - KGL via sonmarg drass zozi la kargil night stay
    sep 15 - visit Batalik - Dah hanoo chiktan villages and back to kargil night stay or proceed ahead on the Leh road from chiktan to maitreya buddha with mulbekh night stay KGL -MLBK is just 40 kms - 1.5 hr travel which gives more time to spend leisurely on the scenic spots on lamayuru - leh route the next day and reach leh early.
    Sep 16 Kargil - Mulbekh - Lamayuru Monastry - Moon Lands - Basgo - Alchi - Nimmoo - Mag Hill - Pathar Sahib - Hall of fame (must if not been earlier last time) - Leh
    Sep 17 - Crucial day to decide / alter your plan. As ILP is readily available and got acclimitised to high altitude all the way from SXR and given your health conditions, i vouch you need not spend one more day at leh ( because you had been to leh 2 yrs back-- keeping this on mind what im saying is) so start from Leh - Khardung La - Diskit /Hunder safari - Night stay at Diskit You decide your plan accordingly by merits/factors viz., health, rest, food, vehicle/ driver/fuel.......
    Sep 18 - diskit - thoise - bogdang - turtuk village visit during afternoon and come back to diskit gompa in the evening to have sunset view and night stay at diskit
    Sep 19 - then pangong tso from diskit is easy on that single day - pangong stay
    Sep 20 - Pangong - Tangtse - Durbok - Chang La - Sakthi (lunch) - Karu (fuel) - Thiksey - Phey evening indus river rafting to nimmoo ( do all ground work like time distance, amount, starting ending points so that the driver has to reach and pick up you at nimmoo etc..) - back to leh night stay
    sep 21 - flight to mumbai

    the above itinerary is prepared keeping you in mind that you had visited ladakh earlier and accustomed to high altitude sickness and covered some of the scenic spots like shanti stupa, hemis etc in your last trip itself so staying at leh got least focussed. plan accordingly your health conditions at that time. all this happens only when ILP is ready at your hand before embarking ladakh trip.

    im on leave today and doing /assisting a good soul for her itinerary so basically im also in an incognito mode today ;) we are in same boat. would like to join with you if possible, but i set my eyes on the suru valley instead. hope to meet you at ladakh in mid-sept if possible. accompanying or not, i do not know but meeting is possible i guess by the way things are changing over now in my new revised itinerary. by the way, i may also ask you some inputs for rafting and other places as you would be PRECEDING to those places just 2 or 3 days earlier to my visit. happy and safe journey ma. cheers madrasi
  2. aparna

    aparna New Member

    Ok. Itinerary is quiet good, provided I get good driver (who can do all ILP) and cost sharing partners who are ready for the itinerary (thats more imp).

    Thanks a lot for your help.
  3. aparna

    aparna New Member

    Dear Mr. Madrasi,

    According to your suggested Itinerary I have prepared following Itinerary with some modifications. Please see if its viable and also suggest changes if required.
    Also I have one more question if we couldn't get travel partner (last time also we didn't got) can we get taxi permitted in Ladakh in Srinagar? or its better to book taxi for entire journey from Mumbai itself. Or can we do single journey at a time with separate partners, in that case we will miss some of the places, I guess. Whats your plan of transport? if you couldn't get travel partner (no offence!!).

    Sep 13 – Srinagar – shikara stay with some sight seeing

    Sep 14 – Srinagar –(200 Km 6 Hours) Kargil(71 Km 2 Hours) Dah Hanoo via Batalik

    Sep 15 – Dah Hanoo – Leh (160 Km 3.30 Hours) via Mulbekh - Lamayuru Monastry - Moon Lands - Basgo - Alchi - Nimmoo - Mag Hill - Pathar Sahib - Hall of fame - Leh <<can we do it>>

    Sep 16 Rest Day – Water Rafting from Phey – Nimmo and/or Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace

    Sep 17 - Leh - Khardung La - Diskit /Hunder safari - Night stay at Diskit/Hunder (125 Km 3.30 Hours)[if possible Diskit – Panamik Hot Water Spring]

    Sep 18Diskit - Thoise - bogdang –(92 Km 2.30 Hours) turtuk village (If possible Turtuk-diskit-Panamik hot water spring 145 km 4 Hours)

    Sep 19Diskit – Agham – Shyok -Durbok -Pangong tso (230 Km 6 Hours) or Nubra-Wari La – Chang La – Pangong (289 Km 7.30 Hours) Depend upon condition which road to take.

    Sep 20 - Pangong - Tangtse - Durbok - Chang La - Sakthi (lunch) - Karu (fuel) - Thiksey - Phey –Back to Leh (225 Km 6 Hours)

    Sep 21 - flight to Mumbai

  4. Meticulous Madrasi

    Meticulous Madrasi New Member

    Dear Aparna,
    1. certain things first. dont go by google maps dist and time. ladakh is land of high passes. eg nubra is 130 kms aprrox time would be anything between 5 to 6 hrs ( heavy traffic - narrow road gorges etc...) whereas nubra-turtuk is at lesser altitude - so driving time is somewhat similar in plains. do consider the timings accordingly. thats why in all my itineraries i keep it as a whole day trip and ladakh is weird natural rugged beauty so eventful natural occurences or traffic jam / vehicle breakdown etc may occur at any given point of time so pl stick on to the day and places you want to cover. rough estimate of time in mind is enough to plan and enjoy. otherwise, you will push more places on any given day ( compromising comfortable journey )
    2. whether you want to cover ALL the places left out in your 1st trip 2yrs back or going to enjoy/ relax / experience the ladakh in its true colours. pl decide on that. i am afraid that even if you push everything in a single day then you wont enjoy much/ live-in moments hectic schedule drains your energy soon so as the thin oxygen levels at high passes. instead of enjoying you may worry about reaching the next and so on........
    3. Sep 16 rest buffer day 17 - Nubra.... Sep 14 - Batalik Dah Hanoo valley. Sep 16 is sunday DC leh office functions from Monday thru Sat only. ILP timings 10 to 3pm only. Unless you have your ILP readily in hand at SXR / or even at KGL you cannot go to batalik, dah hanoo. incase, you are taking the usual SXR- KGL (stay) - KGL - Leh which does not need ILP, you have reach DC office at leh at least by 2 pm to get ILP on Sat itself else getting ILP on monday (sep 17) will eat your time and spoil your Hunder safari trip on that day. pl keep those above 3 points in mind and esply ILP on hand at SXR is better. Take atleast 20-30 photocopies of Sanctioned ILP at SXR itself
    Coming to your queries :
    D1 Sep 13 - Thu -- Arrival time at SXR ? go to mughal gardens in the evening. night stay at boat house dal lake
    D2 Sep 14 - Fri - Yes you can make it. early morning start - enroute unseen scenic spots stop if any - lunch at KGL - here comes : Batalik - Dah Hanoo is very near to LoC (pak border) if the army men insists strictly then for each and every checkpost you have to get down- finish formalities- submit ILP copy to reach Batalik and then to Dah back to KGL night stay ? too tiresome and TIMEsome. stay options at Dah Hanoo is very limited. pushing dah hanoo batalik from srinagar in 1 day is too tough to ENJOY.
    D3 Sep 15 - KGL -Leh 3 routes :
    1. KGL -Batalik-Dah-Chiktan-Fotu la (highest pass on KGL-LEH)-Lamayuru-Khaltse ( cannot visit mulbekh big next avatar buddha in this route)- Basgo-Leh ----260kms longest
    2. KGL- Batalik-Dah-Skurbuchan - Khaltse ( cannot visit mulbekh namika la fotu la lamayuru in this route )-Basgo- Leh ------ 240 Kms ( no big passes but acclimitization part is touchy )
    3. KGL- Mulbekh buddha- namika la- fotu la- lamayuru - moon lands -hangro loops- basgo- leh - Shortest and usual route with more traffic - 220 kms. also body gets acclimitized to AMS as you cross 2 passes. (if getting ILP on sat only then you have to take the shortest 3rd usual route - you may skip some unimp scenic spots to catch more time to get ILP. thats why ILP on hand at SXR itself ensures you to chose 1 out of the 3 routes on sat. ( and it helps visiting batalik dah hanoo etc)
    D4 - Sep 16 Sunday - rest day definitely too tired - shanti stupa sunset can be done. skip leh palace - nothing imp is there except leh city view from top which you can get it from shanti stupa. even if you have time avoid leh palace. if interested try to visit central asian museum near leh palace to know about central asian culture

    D5 D6 Sep 17 18 - visiting panamik either on D5 / D6 is a touch and go affair and remotely possible if god and nature willing. ---- Similar to Fri trip - pushing all things in 1 day

    D7 D8 Sep 19 20 - both can be done in an easy manner. better take take the agham shyok route from diskit instead Wari La though both have its + and -, shyok is shorter with intermittent broken roads Wari La view top is good but gasping oxygen matters and lengthier route. if both agham shyok and wari la are denied permission then you have to take leh karu mighty chang la ( scenic huge pass ) tangtse pangong route for both to and fro and for that visit, if you start from diskit you have to go via khardung la which takes more time else the usual leh- pangong to be done so getting that route permission is important to avoid more time delay.
    your itinerary can be done provided uneventful happenings, gods grace, nature etc., should favour you on those days. even all goes well, it is too tough to travel that much distance on any given day in 4WD at such high passes. Finally, i am afraid you have to skip again some scenic spots to enjoy the trip on that particular day. list out what you want as primary and secondary and go according to the plan and cover those places on that day. part 2 continues.........
  5. Meticulous Madrasi

    Meticulous Madrasi New Member

    PART 2 : Taxi : Srinagar union taxis would be allowed on the usual KGL - LEH scenic spot routes only. i guess there would not be much problems if you take the other 2 road less travelled routes ie., via dah/ chitkan or dah/ skurbuchan routes. Nubra Turtuk Pangong Panamik all to be done with ladakh taxis only. your OWN personal car will be allowed thru entire trip but not rental cars. ladakhi taxi union is so strong and they may ask to show the vehicle papers to check your own car or rental one etc.... so srinagar taxi for Kargil - Leh trip and Ladakh taxi for the rest is possible. one more thing is you can take ladakhi taxis from kargil itself so srinagar taxi is ALSO possible UPTO kargil part alone. ladakh taxi union rates for 18-19 is available which is very COSTLY. either you have to take 1. tourist shared taxi 2. local people shared taxi 3. bus. tourist shared taxi is best provided you should have tourists willing to share the costs on your entire trip, syncing your dates, travel plan and mostly your taste/mindset. ( what happened to that Rahila family ?? not joining with you ?? ) else opt option 2 and 3. yeah, you may get different tourist sharing costs to different places which depends upon your luck on that day is also possible but has very slim chance. Even during my trip also i have to accept it thats why i had posted my plan in the forum else no other go. early morning go to bus stand catch whatever bus starts first to any of your destination then visit that place. i mean if you want to go to diskit but pangong bus leaves and diskit bus is doubtful then take pangong bus and alter your plan accordingly. Sep 16 leisure day pl make a visit to taxi union for taxi rates and look out for similar tourists who are ready to go with your plan and bus stand for bus timings to chart out a plan in your room later. ( deciding on which trip by which mode of transport ...)

    skips : if lamayuru monastry done, then chose any one to visit amongst alchi likir basgo. trip to panamik hot springs is a touch and go part Sep 18 - diskit-turtuk-panamik-diskit stay ???? hey cute crazy girl, it is not that much easy as you type the line...... hope you had been to diskit gompa earlier in that case dont miss samstanling gompa enroute panamik which will take some more time. if you had not been to both the gompas, then do visit diskit gompa in the evening for sunset and nubra valley view from top. so more place more time is on the cards for that day.

    arrival time at SXR ? particular on boat house ? arrival at SXR by noon is possible to arrive at KGL by 7pm on D1 itself ( skipping boat hosue !!??!! )
    do tell me what you WANT to enjoy and what you can skip so that better leisure itinerary shall be prepared. one thing is yours is a family fun trip and not an adventurous one so have to chart out the itinerary accordingly.

    your itinerary is ok provided all factors should work in your favour including ILP before hand, nature gods grace, travel partners etc., else it would be hectic one thereby spending more money on the cab for your family alone which is not worthy as you may not enjoy the lively magical moments i guess. DO prioritize places and things to be done, dont worry all will fall on you at the right moment with right people. dont lose heart. pl wait for the opportune time.
    best wishes
  6. aparna

    aparna New Member

    Ok, I got your point. I will list out my answers.

    1. Can skip : Pather Saheb, Lamayuru, Leh Palace, 3 Idiot School Wish to see: Dah Hanoo, Panamik, Mulbekh Want to do(cant miss): Rafting, Shikara stay, Turtuk, Hall of Fame

    2. Arrival Time at SXR: Landing at 8.40 means we will be out by 9.30

    3. Itinerary: Sept 13: We can start directly for Leh from Srinagar but we would like to stay in Shikara and also don’t miss sightseeing in Srinagar.

    Sept 14: We can start early since we would have taken enough rest but if it’s going to be hectic journey to complete Srinagar-Kargil-Dah Hanoo (via Batalik) then we better stick to the normal plan upto Kargil. Doing Dah Hanoo also depends on ILP (before hand), and that depends on car booking in advance. We generally skip lunch when travelling, this may help visiting Dah Hanoo? (as this saves time and money, instead we carry and eat homemade snacks)

    Sept 15:I think we can go for 3rd option KGL- Mulbekh buddha- namika la- fotu la- lamayuru - moon lands -hangro loops- basgo- leh. We can skip Lamayuru and some more sights if we want to get ILP on this day.

    Sept 16: Sunday , Rest day and Water rafting (no change in plan!)

    Sept 17: We will surely drop Panamik, rest all ok.

    Sept 18: Same, we will drop Panamik, since we have seen Chumathang hot water springs last time.

    Sept 19& 20: We will take Shyok route, we have taken it last time also, its safer.

    The only question is for Sept 14, to go or not to go… that is the question. I think if we get ILP then we will try for it.

    4. Taxi: we have contactsof Taxi driver from our previous travel. He was an excellent guy, but to book him from here we first need travel companion who can share cost. Also ILP also depend on it.

    5. ILP: Since we cannot book taxi till we get cost sharing couple we cananot get ILP before hand. So in that case we need to keep ready 2 itineraries. 1 for ILP in hand and other if we need to take it from Leh.

    6. Rahila Family – There preferences of itinerary is not matching with ours also they are flying directly to Leh and have shorter stay than us. They want to do Tso Moriri which we don’t want, since we did it last time (it will increase cost and tiresome)
  7. Meticulous Madrasi

    Meticulous Madrasi New Member

    Dear Aparna,
    It seems you had worked a lot to ascertain what is MUST, WISH / OPTIONAL and SKIP which gives you a fine tuned itinerary. Your itinerary is ENJOYABLE now.

    Sep 13 - SXR - Shikara Stay - Mughal Gardens evening visit - Boat Stay Night. -- Praying for you to get ILP on hand at SXR itself which helps you to decide the next day stay why i am saying is
    Sep 14 - SXR - Sonamarg Scenic spots - Zozila Pass - Drass - War Memorial - Kargil. ( FYI: Kargil is over priced and overrated because of stay options and midway for leh tourists. If you have ILP on hand, try to Stay at Drass Main Market itself - Budget stay options and you can experience a night stay at one of the coldest inhabitat place )
    Sep 15 - As you have ILP on hand, Early morning Start from Drass - War Memorial - Kargil - Batalik formalities - Dah Hanoo valley ( more time spending on your MUST valley - as you are going to take the shorter route to leh and ILP on hand so reaching Leh is the only job on hand (D3) ) - Skurbuchan - Basgo - Nimmoo - Mag Hill - Hall of Fame - Leh. ( skipping both mulbekh, lamayuru and high passes ). In case ILP is not at hand at SXR then better Night stay at Kargil - early morning start - Mulbekh Buddha - Hangro Loops - Hall of Fame - Leh ( 1 pm ) + ILP ( skip lamayuru, pathar sahib etc., ) and stop for snacks at Uleytokpo.
    Sep 16 - Sunday - Rest Day - River Rafting MUST - if possible and time permits - central asian museum, Hemis / Thiksey Monastry - Shanti Stupa Sunset view and check with villagers for Phyang Village Ice Stupa nearby Nimmoo / Rafting Destination. -- Leh night stay - Market Visit - Essentials and Oxygen Cylinders etc..,
    Sep 17 - early morning start - Sankar Gompa (if) - Khardung La - Diskit - Hunder Nubra camel safari before lunch. try to visit Samstanling Gompa in the sumur route in the evening - diskit stay -- (OR) start little bit late from leh - enjoy the travel in a relaxed manner - Khardung La - Nubra camel safari after lunch and diskit gompa sunset view - diskit stay
    Sep 18 - Diskit - THOISE Air Field( FYI : Thoise is not a place name, it is an acronym - google it) - Bogdang -Turtuk Village Balti Lunch - Museum visit - ( trek to the waterfall is arduous and time consuming so better leave it ) - Skuru - Diskit Gompa Sunset view ( if not done ) - diskit stay. While getting ILP you mention for Tyashi and Thyang villages beyond turtuk. if permitted and time available visit those villages else skip it as TURTUK is MUST for you.
    Sep 19 - most likely you will get permission for agham shyok route. so take the known route from diskit to reach pangong - enjoy all shades of blue. if you are interested spend the night in tents ( costly ) enjoy the stars in the night and sunrise in the morning from the lake. else opt to stay at Spangmik ( cheap ) but the experience of stars and sunrise would not be the same. At lake side tents, DO check for functioning Room Warmers - opt it for a full night usage basis - they tend to switch it off after 11 pm - else the chillness will give you sleepless nights. OTOH, spangmik has got Buildings and little far off from the lake at cheaper rates so you can withstand the dead chill at night. choose it accordingly.
    suppose if you are taking the Wari la route - Ensure the use of oxygen cylinders for the last 20 / 30 kms from Tangyar / Agham to reach wari la top. it is not only humans but the VEHICLE will also gasping for its breath on ascending the wari la top. after reaching the top, open the bonnet of the car for an engine cool down and then descend to sakthi.
    Sep 20 - Return to Leh via Tangtse - Mighty Chang La ( one of the majestic scenic pass ) - Sakthi - Karu - Thiksey / Hemis / Shey Monastry any 1 if not done earlier - Shey palace if possible - reach early Leh for last minute shopping and packing things
    Sep 21 - flying out of leh to mumbai with cherished memories. praying for the lovely couple to get ILP on hand at Srinagar and another good companionship for the entire trip with syncing dates and the same itinerary. BEST WISHES
    Sundar G aka Meticulous Madrasi
  8. aparna

    aparna New Member

    Thanks a lot:), and my itinerary is final at last...
  9. Lakshmi v

    Lakshmi v New Member

  10. Lakshmi v

    Lakshmi v New Member

    Hi Ms Aparna!
    I am planning to travel from Srinagar to leh as iam lone lady traveller in 50s, looking out to travel with family or with ladies group ,I am pure veg and i am from Bangalore, I am working out my travel plan schedule,ive been to Leh once, couldnt visit places, I want to explore traveling by road from Srinagar to Leh .

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